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DCS Does Work And ***IS*** Amazing

ThreeEyes
Explorer
With positional tracking and everything!

http://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/2c21gj/dcs_is_freaking_amazing_in_dk2_go_try_it_now/

That refers back here to steps on how to set up DK2 to work. It's legacy mode and you need to disable the Config utility and the service per here: viewtopic.php?f=37&t=10892&start=40#p146051

I haven't tried it yet but that's next on my list!

Edit - Changed the title. It's truly amazing! Yow amazing!
But... but... but... I just NEED to know about the Baba! The Baba has me hypmotized! :shock:
474 REPLIES 474

Gods3nt
Honored Guest
Oh well it's nice to see some fellow dcs pilots here. :mrgreen:
Briefly, I own fc2&3, a10c, p51d, and the ka50. The other modules don't interest me. As for both the a10c and the ka50 these two have the biggest learning curves. It took me a year to master them together with the manual. The mustang took me about a month without the manual. Next on my list is the infamous Super Hornet.

EddieJames
Explorer
Try landing the FW 190 - wow!
DK2 on ASUS Rampage V i7-5930k @ 3.5ghz, GTX 780ti, 32GB DDR4 RAM, 500GB SSD Win 7 Pro

ThreeEyes
Explorer
I'm looking forward to flying the 190! I hope they keep making WWII aircraft. I'd love to see a P-38 at that level of detail.
But... but... but... I just NEED to know about the Baba! The Baba has me hypmotized! :shock:

Wireline
Explorer
"ThreeEyes" wrote:
I'm looking forward to flying the 190! I hope they keep making WWII aircraft. I'd love to see a P-38 at that level of detail.


Heh yeah I have a ton of DCS planes to try out, I have been saving them for my new build. I finally have it all put together, barring the second 980 and the storage drive. Just need to get myself Windows 8.1 which I somehow forgot to buy 😄 Its going to be soooo cool.

Talking of cool, the manual for the Arctic Silver 5 says it takes 200 operating hours to get up to full conductivity and you have to wait for it to 'cure' 😞 That overclock may have to wait :lol:

Will be posting build pics at some point, wherever I can hijack a thread lol

ThreeEyes
Explorer
Hey Wire, make absolutely sure you have the thermal grease and not the thermal adhesive. The adhesive definitely has a cure time but if you glue on a heat sink with it, likely it is not coming off.

The thermal grease - what you want - doesn't really cure but does flow a bit to let things seat up close and fill all the micro scratches and such for maximum contact area and thermal transfer. The thermal grease will dry out over long time but essentially never "cures". In normal home use, it basically never dries out. That only happens over really long times in continuous use.

And the 190 is a bear! I figured out the start - easy - but have to figure out the tail wheel lock and wheel brakes. Taxiing is tough and it's easy to just turn in a circle. Still haven't actually taken off. Just did an air start instead but the 190 does fly nice. I was following the quick start guide so I'm hoping there is more tail wheel info in the regular manual.
But... but... but... I just NEED to know about the Baba! The Baba has me hypmotized! :shock:

Wireline
Explorer
"ThreeEyes" wrote:
Hey Wire, make absolutely sure you have the thermal grease and not the thermal adhesive. The adhesive definitely has a cure time but if you glue on a heat sink with it, likely it is not coming off.

The thermal grease - what you want - doesn't really cure but does flow a bit to let things seat up close and fill all the micro scratches and such for maximum contact area and thermal transfer. The thermal grease will dry out over long time but essentially never "cures". In normal home use, it basically never dries out. That only happens over really long times in continuous use.

And the 190 is a bear! I figured out the start - easy - but have to figure out the tail wheel lock and wheel brakes. Taxiing is tough and it's easy to just turn in a circle. Still haven't actually taken off. Just did an air start instead but the 190 does fly nice. I was following the quick start guide so I'm hoping there is more tail wheel info in the regular manual.


You had me panicking there! I just went and checked and its this stuff: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003VRBPAI/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=479289247&pf_rd_s=lpo-t...

And a little bit of fluff about it here: http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm . I got the 200 hour thing from this paragraph:

During the CPU's initial use, the compound thins out to enhance the filling of the microscopic valleys and ensure the best physical contact between the heatsink and the CPU core. Then the compound thickens slightly over the next 50 to 200 hours of use to its final consistency designed for long-term stability. (This should not be confused with conventional phase change pads that are pre-attached to many heatsinks. Those pads melt each time they get hot then re-solidify when they cool. The viscosity changes that Arctic Silver 5 goes through are much more subtle and ultimately much more effective.

Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5's conductive matrix, it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.



So hopefully I haven't just superglued my CPU to my cooler 🙂 I followed your advice and tried out an application, then checked to see how I did and it came off easy enough.

That plane sounds a bit like my early experiences with the P-51 - locking rear wheel, complete bit** to get to roll in a straight line 😄 Got there eventually but left me with a lot of respect for WW2 pilots .... is it differential braking? I will have to set up my toe brakes...

ThreeEyes
Explorer
You'll definitely need toe brakes for the 190! But even with them, it seems to have a mind of its own.Something is different from the P-51. I can taxi that pretty well using the brakes and locking the tailwheel when I want to go straight. I'm just missing something with the 190. With that wide stance, it ought to taxi fairly well I would think. A 109 would probably be about the hardest thing there could be to taxi except for maybe a U2 or something. I'm sure there is more info in the manual. Just haven't read it yet. But that engine start is very cool! 😄

On the Arctic Silver - that's a relief. I hadn't read their literature for a while and when you said cure, I was really hoping I hadn't set you up for a permanent heat sink installation!

I didn't know that the stuff would settle in like that with the temperature cycles. I think most people just put it on and go for it and any break-in is gravy... 😄
But... but... but... I just NEED to know about the Baba! The Baba has me hypmotized! :shock:

Kemeros
Protege
I've got a different problem. Well 2.

The game freezes 4 out of 5 times. But hey... once it runs, it runs fine so, whatever.

Second problem is the tracking. For some reason... It's messes up and follow the wrong axis.

For example, if i lean right, my body/view leans forward towards the console. If i lean forward, my body leans right.

Tried to go mess in the controls but nothing i tried had an effect.

Anyone got a tip for this one?

Every video i see, people seem to have proper positional tracking working good so the problem is obviously on my side.

I'm running 0.4.3 currently. Steam version of DCS.

Nvdia GTX770 with an intel i5 4670k. Windows 8.1.

Wireline
Explorer
"Kemeros" wrote:
I've got a different problem. Well 2.

The game freezes 4 out of 5 times. But hey... once it runs, it runs fine so, whatever.

Second problem is the tracking. For some reason... It's messes up and follow the wrong axis.


Hmm interesting. Well, when you have TrackIR, what happens is your movements are mapped to x,y and z movements (axes are usually being enabled in game by holding down the middle mouse button and shifting the mouse). I have never had to look in the setup, but buried in the paaaaages of options for controls, you would see these axes mapped to TrackIR or 'some' input device. I can only assume that the Oculus does the same thing, and its going to mean hunting about in the control setup. Either that or finding a config file from someone with the same version number.

I have an appoitnment tonight or I would go digging to see, but if no one turns up to help I will probably be back along later 😄

Kemeros
Protege
"Wireline" wrote:
I have an appoitnment tonight or I would go digging to see, but if no one turns up to help I will probably be back along later 😄


Alright thank you. 🙂