FIXED: Quest 3 Locked After Setting Password Instead of PIN - NO Reset Needed
Problem: I accidentally set a password (e.g., "Meta Quest") using the hidden Android settings on my Meta Quest 3. After that, the headset asked for a PIN, not a password -- and there was no way to type letters. It looked like a factory reset was the only way out. Solution (No Factory Reset!): You can unlock your Quest and reset the passcode using the Meta Quest mobile app, even if the headset is stuck at the PIN screen. Step-by-Step: 1. Open the Meta Quest app on your phone (Android or iPhone). 2. Make sure the app is connected to your locked Quest headset. 3. Tap Menu > Devices > Headset Settings. 4. Scroll to the bottom and tap Passcode. 5. The app will prompt you to enter a PIN -- but it only shows a number pad, so you can't type your password here... yet. Workaround: 6. In another app on your phone (like Chrome, Notes, etc.), type your actual password -- for example: Meta Quest 7. Copy the password to your clipboard. 8. Go back to the Meta Quest app's PIN entry screen. 9. Paste your full password into the PIN textbox (yes, even though it shows a number pad). 10. Hit Enter -- your Quest will immediately unlock, and you can now set a proper 4-digit PIN. 100 percent working on Meta Quest 3. No factory reset needed. No debug mode. No PC. Just the Meta app plus this trick. Hope this helps others!
LogHMD: Error: Failed to load a depth texture frame description for the left eye.
My packaged Unreal build for the Quest 3 will not start and stays at the Unreal Editor splash screen. I dumped the log and saw the title of this post dozens and dozens of times in said log file: [2024.08.03-01.35.34:788][399]LogHMD: Error: Failed to load a depth texture frame description for the left eye. [2024.08.03-01.35.34:790][399]LogShaderLibrary: Warning: Spent 4.39 ms in a blocking wait for shader preload, NumRefs: 2, FramePreloadStarted: 2686, CurrentFrame: 2686 [2024.08.03-01.35.34:803][400]LogHMD: Error: Failed to load a depth texture frame description for the left eye. [2024.08.03-01.35.34:846][401]LogHMD: Error: Failed to load a depth texture frame description for the left eye. [2024.08.03-01.35.34:846][401]LogSVRLoadScreen: Display: BlockTick delta: 0.11 seconds. Current elapsed load screen time: 4.35 [2024.08.03-01.35.34:858][401]LogHMD: Error: Failed to load a depth texture frame description for the left eye. [2024.08.03-01.35.34:864][401]LogHMD: Error: Failed to load a depth texture frame description for the left eye. [2024.08.03-01.35.34:881][404]LogHMD: Error: Failed to load a depth texture frame description for the left eye. [2024.08.03-01.35.34:881][404]LogHMD: Error: Failed to load a depth texture frame description for the left eye. ...and on and on. The error seems to be linked to a custom node that uses the return ResolvedView.StereoPassIndex; command in order to adjust an effect per-eye. When I remove the node, the game starts properly. Everything runs fine in PIE, no troubles at all. I've never run into this error before on other projects, yet this particular one is plagued by it. What could the problem be?
Oculus 2 will not boot, possible sensor issue? Log cat included
Hello everyone. I apologize for such the low level question but I am not sure where else to turn. Out of nowhere, my oculus 2 stopped booting and is stuck on the logo. I know the proximity sensor was on the way out bc I would have to turn it off in the MQDH app in order for the screen to come on. But now, it is just stuck on the boot logo. I have not factory reset, because I do not want to lose connectivity to SideQuest and MQDH, but I have sideloaded the latest Firmware 63.0.0.146.363.566760361 via adb in the bootloader, but still the same issue. Any other suggestions? Thanks to all PS I have a more verbose logcat available however I did not want to attach here due to size restrictions. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MemNFUiJ3-taw-i0BSZ1MDDEyj_YCqUI/view?usp=sharingWiFi realities many seem to overlook
SIMPLE and DISTILLED points to guide most situations ... not the end-all solution to your exact situation ... it's just general logic that i keep seeing so many dumbfounded by. --- TLDR, for now just get a Link .. third party or official? up to you, and there's a huge difference. (... aside from saving you a bunch of time I also said that to start some up arguments). 🗝 Gospel If you expect capable wireless performance on an ISP two-in-one sh#!box that some telco threw into your plan - you will absolutely be constantly disappointed ... and no... there's no way around it, so if you use one of these then, YES, YES, YES it is in fact the true source of all your problems - sooner you face the additional expense and get a real actual router, the sooner you can get on with it ... anyone thinking "i can't afford a new router" ... I say, you got a **bleep** Quest, you'll figure it out, go second hand even but remember a router runs the house .. and they don't need to look like a pregnant scorpion to be effective. 💩2.4Ghz .. yes, it'll work, sometimes, in some situations ... and that's as much as you should set expectations for - treat 2.4Ghz as emergencies only and 'i'm asking for trouble' but it's life or death. 🤓 5Ghz .. yes, it'll work a world better than former - to an extent, as you've heard it's not so great with persistence when part of a mesh environment - so get results you'll need a completely dedicated channel so it's just you ... the router/pc and the quest. if just one of them Siri, Lexa n' Googz gets on your zen wifi then you may as well just use 2.4ghz with all the noise that smart assistants (and other devices) make on wifi ... they constantly signal out for anything and everything ... zero **bleep**s given. Basically 5 Ghz didn't have VR gaming in mind... its more for catering any device coming and going within proximity. Yea.. moving on. 👻 WiFi 6 (gen1) .. widely available, cheap ... doesn't need to be router. ...yes yes yes .. much better than mentioned... you will save many good years of your life by stop screwing abou twith the previously mentioned and jump straight into WiFi 6 wagon ...but know it's not perfect .... like, even on a clear dedicated channel with top equipment, you will experience visual fallout time to time it's not so bad - just depends on how triple A you're getting and how stupid you are .. relax, you'll be okay bubz mmnnn-yea .. that's basics for logic .. for those who this and more okay, calm down ... well aware there's volumes more - hoping others will pile in and then yea toxic. need nicotine, outta here.
Quest 2 initial setup wifi drop workaround!
So as many users have had this same problem, I looked into it a bit more, and one of the main reasons the headset has so many issues with single channel wifi being dropped is in fact the power save/ sleep mode the headset goes into when not being worn. So here is the fix I found for this problem, its a bit of a tedious thing, but here it is: WEAR THE HEADSET BACKWARDS. Yup, that's how I fixed it. The unit not only goes into power save mode when the sensor between the lenses doesn't detect heat, but also appears to do it when the headset is worn on top of the head, something to do with the angle its sitting at. Wearing it backwards seems to make the unit think it is in use, preventing a power save mode from being activated. Unit updated with no problem after 2 days of scouring the internet and forums to no avail. I can only hope someone else sees this and it prevents a headache from someone else.
